Look closely to see the candy and colored balls falling from this Super Cub to the waiting children of Dillingham. |
THE VIEW FROM OUT WEST
Beaver
Roundup: A Reminder of Home
At about noon
on March 1, I was sitting in our bayside apartment when my cell phone chimed. It
was a text message from Yvonne at the local flight service station where she
works: “At 2pm there will be a candy drop from an airplane, downtown! Don’t
miss it!”
Yvonne knew I
was hunting for good photo ops at the annual Beaver Roundup celebration. I’d
already photographed several activities but hadn’t even noticed this one on the
list of events.
She’d spoken
to the pilot, who would be dropping in low over Dillingham with his little red
Super Cub. He was scheduled to drop candy, along with a slew of colored balls
that kids could redeem for cash, near the local lily pond (near the Fish &
Game office) at two o’clock. Since Yvonne had specified “downtown,” however, I
figured that the venue had been changed because unusually warm weather had
created a layer of overflow on the frozen pond. At 1:30, I strode out the door,
two cameras at the ready.
On a curving
section of an oddly deserted Main Street about 10 minutes later, I leaned
against a creosoted power pole and waited. At 2 p.m. there were still no
crowds; nevertheless, I heard an airplane, and soon a red Super Cub was aiming straight
for downtown, past the pond and directly above the street on which I was
standing … and onward, without so much as a Tootsie Roll spiraling to the
ground.
Kids with plastic sacks wait for candy to fall from the sky. |
I watched as the
plane roared out over Nushagak Bay, made a graceful, sweeping left-hand turn
and angled for the city water tower. It dived low, as if to land, and I swore I
heard children cheering. Then the plane was rising again, heading back toward
the Dillingham Airport.
Just as I
thought I’d somehow missed the whole thing, however, the plane turned again and
headed back into town. Once again it flew over my position, turned above the
bay and aimed for the tower. Once again I heard children cheering.
On the off-chance
that there might be another encore, I began running. Past N&N Grocery,
left, past the hardware store, left, past the bank, right, past Bristol Bay
Campus and Dillingham High School, right. There, at the far end of a long
fenced-in playground, stood the water tower. Inside the metal perimeter surged a
herd of children, brandishing plastic grocery sacks already heavy with treats
and colorful plastic balls.
I raced for
the scene of the action just as the plane swooped again in front of the tower
and laid down another volley. Screaming, happy children sloshed through snow
and ice and wet grass, grabbing for goodies on the ground. I huffed and puffed
into position, and my photographic efforts were erratic and disappointing.
As the plane departs, the rush for goodies is on! |
Then someone near
me said the plane was coming back one more time.
And thus it
was that I witnessed (and finally photographed) the last candy drop on one of
the last days of the five-day, 56th annual celebration known as
Beaver Roundup.
All week, I’d
been having flashbacks to my life in Southcentral Alaska: eating beluga burgers
and cubes of blubber at the old Kenai Days barbecue, watching the parade and
rodeo during Soldotna Progress Days, helping my kids collect candy during Kenai’s
Fourth of July parade, watching the ceremonial Iditarod start and running with
the reindeer at Fur Rendezvous in Anchorage, marveling at the ice sculptures at
the Peninsula Winter Games.
Despite the
fact that poor snow conditions—i.e., almost snow at all—cancelled the
traditional sled dog sprint races and all the snowmobile events, the rest of
the show proceeded as planned. Cars and people thronged Main Street for about
30-40 minutes of parade action and flying candy, which children and adults
scuttled in and out of the street to extricate from the puddles and slush. The
costume-centric Fun Run was brief but energetic, as was the outhouse race. I
acted as a taster for the pickled salmon and agutuk (Native ice cream)
competitions. I purchased Beaver Roundup buttons. Yvonne and I attended the
dinner show called Dilly Capers and the chili and chowder cook-offs (again as
tasters), the local crafts fair at the senior center, and the end-of-week
fireworks display at the harbor.
Pickled salmon awaits judging. |
For most of
the winter, the action may be slow in Dillingham, but during Beaver Roundup the
energy is palpable and frenetic. Everybody, it seems, comes out for at least
one event, be it Frozen Turkey Bowling or the Traditional Foods Feast, live
music from the New Stuyahok Band or “Dillingham Idol.”
As it is on
the peninsula, such events are largely celebrations of community. In
Dillingham, it is also a chance to kick the economy in the pants during an
ordinarily sluggish time of year. Both Kenai Days and Soldotna Progress Days
were engineered by Chamber of Commerce types intent on promoting their towns
and businesses. For a while in the 1960s, Kenai used the time to hype its
Beluga Whale Hunt Club. Soldotna, excited by the nearby discovery of oil in
1957, jumped on the notion of “progress” to indicate an end to its days of
dormancy.
Determination in the outhouse race. |
Beaver
Roundup, like Fur Rendezvous, originated around the idea that late
February/early March was a traditional time for local trappers to bring their pelts
to market. Most of those trappers had dog teams, and it was only natural for
some competition among the teams to evolve. At the very first Beaver Roundup,
26 teams battled for honors.
Yup'ik dancer riding through town during the annual parade. |
Over the
years, the celebration grew into a multi-day affair, and the variety of events
greatly expanded. Snowmobile races gradually superseded sled dog races in
popularity. Food events abounded, as did various games of speed and chance. Now
at least one Outside comedian is flown in for a couple of shows—one family
friendly, the other rated R—and BRU raffles produce prizes ranging from hooded
sweatshirts to new snowmobiles and stacks of cash.
Of course,
not every new event survives its debut. At BRU a number of years ago, someone
thought it would be a good idea to have two airplanes compete to see which one
could break the most balloons with its propeller. Fortunately, no one was
seriously injured.
Theresa Duncan performs during Dilly Capers. |
Despite the
uncooperative winter, Beaver Roundup, like all those other celebrations of
self, reminded everyone here of the spirit of community and the aspects of
western Bristol Bay that make it unique. And that, I think, is the essence of
such things: These events, unlike the glamorous and star-studded Parade of
Roses or Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade on television, are filled with real rural
citizens, coming together with everything they’ve got.
Local residents
make the floats and drive the cars and toss the candy, and if our brief parades
sometimes seem a little hokey and jam-packed with ordinary folks, it’s because
that’s the way it’s supposed to be. That’s who we are—the residents of rural
Alaska (and small towns everywhere), holding a virtual mirror up to ourselves
and doing the best we can.
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